By Dayal Mora das
The time was coming around for the temple to send me to India again. Finally! I have the great fortune to serve as brahmachari leader at Sri Sri Radha Londonisvara Dham and I have been serving here for three and half years. I’m into Harinam and it’s a blessing that I can call this service one of my main services.
It was not difficult to choose a destination to request since I had recently seen Parasuram’s video from a Vraja Mandala Parikrama, or Padyatra, from 2010 which was super inspiring and I had been immediately attracted. (https://vimeo.com/10101860) What could be a better means of honouring the forests of Vraja than walking amongst them, chanting Harinam with an ox cart and two beautiful bulls from which tons of prasadam and books are distributed to the Brij Basi’s? We simultaneously visit the many ancient holy places dating back to the The Supreme Lord’s manifest pastimes on this planet as well as please the local inhabitants of this worshipable tract of land, a people undoubtedly very dear to Lord Krishna. And all of this during the month or Kartik!
In my previous life before coming to devotional service and ISKCON, I had oftentimes preferred travelling a little off the beaten track. In this way I found that one gets to see the reality of each place, meet the people who live there and there is an added element of excitement and adventure.
Thus this program seemed to be my cup of tea and surely a good program to invoke the blessings of Srila Prabhupada, the Vaisnavas and the residents of Vraja! I wrote to Para and got a place on the tour. By the Lords grace I was on my way to Vrindavan.
I hadn’t been too mental during the build up to the parikrama, I had decided to simply get out there and do the best I could, however from time to time I naturally did ponder briefly about how My body would hold up in the conditions, after all I had never been on padyatra before. My service was to perform sankirtana for 6 hours a day covering up to 25 km and it wasn’t clear where we would be taking rest in the evenings.
Kartik was as late as it gets this year with it beginning late October and finishing 25th November. With a nice crew of 6 souls we hit the road the day after we landed in India. I managed to pick up a walking harmonium and a mosquito net before setting out, both items I felt were absolutely essential for one month on the road in Vraja.
For those not familiar with the Vraja Mandala Parikrama, ‘parikrama’ means ‘to circumabulate’ and in doing so we honour and show respect to the object we are circumambulating. According to Lokanath Swami’s new book Vraja Mandala is 168 miles, not including internal parikramas. We would encircle the entire area of Vraja on foot.
Surprisingly even to myself the daily routine came very naturally and we happily traversed kilometre after kilometre constantly hearing the Holy Names vibrating in the ether around us. In fact it was The Holy Names which carried us through the quiet and busy roads, towns and villages and I was simply fortunate enough to be on the ride. Out of the 6 man crew, three of us usually were available for the service of chanting before the oxcart. As well as myself there was Vaikuntha Prabhu from Russia who had been on the tour several times before, as had Loka Saranga Prabhu from Czech. I soon realised that all the members had performed this yajna for several years in succession I and began to wonder if the same was going to happen to me. In addition we were joined a couple of weeks into the parikrama by one devotee from Nigeria, another brahmachari called Tribuvanath. Arjuna and his good wife Krishna Mayi would hand out books and bananas on the move whilst Para drove the ox-cart.
Me and Loka would take turns beating the mridanga, Vaikuntha would bash the cartels and we would alternate the singing. Vaisnavas are very tolerant and the team were kind enough to allow me to sing my little heart out for hours on end playing my new squeeze box with great enthusiasm! I felt that as the month drew on our relationships became very sweet through this chanting and every day we were overcoming obstacles and sharing experiences. Performing service together and serving one another is the way to build friendships in Krishna Consciousness.
It would take too long to describe all the sacred places we visited, needless to say they were all beautiful, enriching and purifying to see, smell and touch and pay obeisances to. As a city based front liner I found great joy in being out in the countryside for a change away from the bustling areas of Mathura and Vrindavan. What bliss we experienced chanting all day from dawn, which was when we would usually set off, until dusk when we pull in to our final stop for the evening. Our daily bath in the Holy Name was glorious.
We would usually be with or very close to the official Parikrama party, which this year consisted of 1500 devotees from all over India and the world. We were part of the main Parikrama party but at the same time a little separate which is understandable since we have a slightly different program. For example each evening we would drive the Harinam and oxcart into a village which the team may or may not have visited before in previous years.
Someway before the village came into view the banana throwing pastimes would begin in earnest as Para and Arjuna launched an untold number of yellow torpedoes into the sea of village children scrambling and diving, fighting and seemingly having the time of their lives in a frenzy of banana catching mayhem. Somehow the children would usually have advanced warning that we were coming and run out of the village to meet us on the road literally sprinting like anything to be amongst the first to get those bananas and books.
The same scene would be repeated in every village and we never tired from seeing the explosion of enthusiasm that these blessed children displayed at the prospect of receiving Thakurji’s mercy in the form of these bananas. It was incredible to see day after day how just like an army of untiring monkeys these children competed with great tenacity, and at the risk of life and limb (seemingly) they each pocketed one, two, three or more bananas. The bigger boys were the best catchers and the parents and village elders would look on in delight as their children revelled in the fun of the oxcart pastimes. The children look forward to the carts arrival every year.
We would then reach a suitable place in the village and whilst the kirtan continued Para and Arjuna would set up for the next instalment of the program, a movie! Thanks to the solar panels on the roof of the oxcart, batteries, a retractable screen, a projector and an amplifier, the oxcart is swiftly transformed into a mini cinema. All the village kids gather around, eyes transfixed upon the huge screen, the smaller ones at the front and the cooler, older ones with flashy shirts purchased in town would hang out at the back. The elders of the village often in the more traditional dress would be amongst the crowd. It seemed as if the whole village was there!
After 2 or 3 episodes of ‘Little Krishna’, the punching preaching movie would be shown. This year the movie shows scenes of the western world with all its glitz and glamour which seems so attractive, but as the film progresses it reveals the darker sides to western civilisation with is multitude of wars, violence, slaughter houses, drugs and discontent. Life is short and death is closing in for us all. Remain a Brij Basi and enjoy the best culture, your own culture, the culture which reminds us so much of the pastimes of Sri Krishna Himself. The very fact that this truth is being explained by a bunch of white skinned westerners adds weight to the message.
Once the movie concludes we pack up and prepare for rest as by this time it’s dark. If we are not invited in for supper by the friendly villagers we relish the opportunity to practice the sadhu style means of getting ones sustenance. Madhukari! Para would take me along as he showed me how to beg from door to door like a honey bee, taking from each family only one or two rotis and a little milk and in this way not being too much of a burden on any individual family in the village. A few doors later and we had a veritable feast to offer to Sri Sri Nitai Gaurasundara. We would then sit together on the cart munching down roti after delicious warm roti, made with freshly ground grains and cooked often before our eyes. Washed down with ample warm cows milk, what could be better after a good days preaching in the most sacred place on earth? Lord Chaitanya Himself walked this land and Krishna appeared and grew up amongst these people. How can we be much better situated? Laying back satisfied and excited about the next day and snuggled up in my sleeping bag I’m thinking how I could live like this forever.
Some other highlights of the Parikrama were:
Bathing in the various sacred kund’s which are so wonderfully available to all in Vraja, a far cry from the UK and its chlorine filled swimming pools!
We were able to visit some places off of the general Parikrama route such as Surya Kund which is a pastime place which Radharani Herself still visits daily and also where Gaura Kishore das Babaji Maharaja performed many austerities.
Blue cows! Although apparently becoming rarer to see in Vraja we saw them so many times in ever greater numbers and more closely. In fact on one of the last days we were only a few meters from one of these wild native creatures which is I suppose something between a cow and a deer. He seemed to like the sound of our harinam!
Our Govadhana Parikrama was a little different. Instruments in hand we circumambulated Giri Raj at breakneck speed in a rickshaw with the Holy Names streaming from the rear of the vehicle. “Don’t let Lokanatha Swami see me” joked Para as we hurtled past his Parikrama party!
However for me the topmost highlight was developing friendships and experiencing the Dham in the association of and serving alongside such cool devotees. They would not want to be glorified, but for me that association made the pilgrimage so nectarean. Now I understand a little better why these devotees cannot stop themselves coming year in year out on this ecstatic program and what an opportunity it is to do so! Maybe next time I could improve my capacity for serving them and make some real advancement.
“You have only spoken about good things, nothing went wrong?”, you may cry. Well surprisingly, aside from the usual day to day difficulties, it is true… except for the mad bull episode! We had to swap one of the bulls early on due to a leg problem but somehow or another we were given a replacement bull which was basically a psychopath. My first view of this bull was seeing this huge fearful beast running full pelt towards us in the campsite for the Parikrama party. I found out later that by this time it had already tried to kill Para and escape a couple of times. I was most impressed by Para’s determination the next morning to harness the insubordinate brute to the oxcart despite being run over more than once. Needless to say this grumpy, grouchy and overly paranoid excuse for a bull was also discharged later and swapped with a much more humble bull of good character who was willing to pull Their Lordships and Their devotees along the dusty roads of Vraja and thus advance in Krishna Consciousness. It was explained to me later on that these kinds of things happen from time to time when dealing with bulls, and I was informed of some historic instances that had occurred over the years which were both hilarious and far more frightening.
My deepest realisation was in regards to my long lost and forgotten eternal relationship with the Lord’s Holy Name which was to some degree improved and gratefully taken back to London for the benefit of the unfortunate souls there. Sri Harinam Sankirtan key jaya! Though certainly I’m still but a tottering infant stumbling along the long winding pathway back to Goloka Vrindavan, a month on the road in Vraja has graciously gifted me a greater taste for chanting the Holy Name of Krishna. Thank you so much Braja Bhumi Dham! Now I must distribute The Name with greater intensity and without false pride, and then hopefully by Her grace Srimate Radharani may invite me back again for more service one day soon for Her divine pleasure.
Hari Bol!
For more details about this greatest of ways to spend ones Kartik, you are please recommended to read Lokanath Swami’s new book named ‘Vraja-mandala Darsana’
I have been asked a few times upon my return to London about the austerity there in Braj. In the purport to Srila Prabhupada’s Bhagavad Gita As It Is 17.16, His Divine Grace writes that austerity of the mind is performed by training the mind to always be thinking of how to good for others. So my humble recommendation is to go to see the 12 forests of Braj with the intention of doing good for others and taste the sweetness of this austerity for yourself.
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